How to Travel the Omo Valley Responsibly
The term "human safari" or "human zoo" come from the idea that when you visit a remote region and think you are experiencing a true lifestyle, but in reality it's staged. It also comes with the notion, that foreigners do no interact naturally with who they are visiting. And capture them like they are behind cages and unapproachable. In many cases, foreigners dehumanize people for being different. Coming in with a sense of entitlement from abroad and disrespect people's rights to privacy. Knowing this ahead of time, I entered the Omo Valley to deliberately explore this more. And here is my experience:
Every. single. person. that I met in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia was so pleasant. Even when holding an AK47. I never for one second felt unsafe. I visited almost every different ethnic village. I also stopped A LOT on the side of the road. When I saw something interesting or even someone waving I stopped. I walked up to total strangers, not speaking the same language and received a warm greeting always. Sometimes a handshake, sometimes a high five, sometimes a hug. It always ended with a picture. Mainly because they wanted money. The indigenous groups in this area have become so accustomed to foreigners coming and treating them like a "human safari". Throwing them candy, paying for a picture and going on their way. I did everything possible to not engage in that type of behavior. And in this blog I will tackle how not to engage in "human safari" tourism when visiting Ethiopia's Omo Valley.
So, how do you not perpetuate "human safaris" or "poverty tourism"?
It's pretty simple.
Don't treat people like animals.
Period.
Unfortunately, poverty tourism and human safaris are common terms used when foreigners visit Africa. We can also see it in Latin America and Asia as well - but we will focus on my experience in Ethiopia. Ethiopia and its fascinating ethnic groups are a focal point for Nat Geo and BBC. Creating this desire to adventure to faraway lands and meet cultures threatened by extinction. The isolated lifestyle of the indigenous people in the Omo Valley make for a very interesting juxtaposition in a modern world. A lot of people want to witness, photograph and experience this tribal culture before it's gone.
I saw it firsthand. Not just the indigenous groups. But the tourists. And I think there are many topics that need to be addressed.
1 - Documenting. There is a big issue that comes with the idea of documenting these people and their lifestyle. By documenting them and not engaging, emerges this large divide between you and them. Instead of building a common ground, you want to preserve their integrity by capturing them in "real life". But in order to not disturb them, you essentially have to ignore them. I witnessed tourist and documentary photographers push their way through ceremonies, capturing sacred moments without acknowledging anyone around them. Moments that are intimate for the ceremony have been disrupted by gimbals, iPhones and safari hats.
2 - Interaction. Is there a way to positively interact when visiting these groups in a responsible way? Yes! Treat them like you would any other person hosting you in their house. Be polite. Thank them. Ask permission before doing something. And just hang out! As human beings, a smile is universal. Laughter usually comes out at the same moments. Us women have a connection. Use it. Ask your guide to translate. Sit and chat before ever taking out your camera. Remember, do not put your foreign perspective or modern lens on their lifestyle. Be open to learn without judgement.
3 - Photography. Is it ethical to take their picture? For me this one of the most complicated points. FIRST, yes they agree to it. Almost everyone wants their picture taken and asks for it. So a simple answer is, you got permission and it is OKAY. And yes, you have to pay for it. But if they do not have any reference point for what you are doing with this picture. Can they truly agree? Personally, I don't think so. So, if you are professional photographer, author or in any way going to profit financially from these images - you might be crossing a line. Please have your guide keep contact information of every village, their chief or main subject so you can properly compensate them in the future. It is the right thing to do.
4 - Gifts. Every single person from every single village asked me for "caramelo". Children, adults, men and women. I did not bring any candy or gifts with me. Is it necessary to bring them candy and clothes? No. All the local guides agree that it perpetuates the desire for handouts. They do not need to eat candy and usually end up throwing out the clothes. If you want to bring something, try to get a count of how many children there are and bring school supplies. Notebooks, coloring pencils, etc. are a productive gift. BUT be mindful to bring enough for everyone or don't bring any at all.
5 - Preservation. This is the next extremely complicated point. When you go to the Omo Valley you want to learn about the different tribes' way of life. Meaning, polygamy, marriage by abduction, female circumcision, drinking ox blood, whipping rituals and more. All of these topics are extremely common, widely accepted and sensitive. When we hear about dying languages and cultures becoming extinct, we of course want to help preserve them. And when we hear about children not going to school, early marriage and female circumcision, we of course want to change that. Which begs the question of how do you manage cultural preservation and human rights? Do we have the right as outsiders to hand-select which parts of indigenous culture are okay to preserve and which are not? Is it our place to judge them with our modern lens? Can we reduce violence and abuse against women to "cultural"? Or is labeling violence again women as "culture" justifying it?
Main Question:
As foreigners discussing these 5 points - are we just undermining their own right to self-determination?
Now that we have outlined some major topics of discussion. Let's take some action. Here are simple ways to engage thoughtfully when visiting Ethiopia.
See someone carrying something, help them.
See someone cooking in the kitchen, learn from them.
See someone working in the field, lend a hand.
See someone dancing on the side of the road, ask to join.
These small acts of kindness are universal, can be icebreakers and show you care about what they are doing.
In all of these instances each person opened up, was grateful and smiled. Creating these moments of joy out of genuine interactions is good for the world. Smiles are universal and are a catalyst for more positivity.
Thanks for reading. And as always . . . Be thoughtful. Stay kind.
♡ Alyssa
Follow along on instagram (@alyssaya) for more about Guatemala, ethical fashion, responsible travel and globally minded topics!